![]() ![]() The older monocogs had 110mm rear spacing, and came with disc hubs starting around '03 or '04 I believe. ![]() The Monocog 29'er is new this year, and has standard 135mm MTB spacing, same as the new '06 monocog. You can use the stock wheel, flip it, bolt on your adapter+disc on one side, and bolt on a cog, and have a fixed, disc-brake equipped 29'er MTB very easily. The atomlab Disk Adapters that thread onto the freewheel threading will work for braking, and you can still have to bolt on a fixed cog to the stock disc-mount. The six bolt mount just threads onto the freewheel thread, and there's a caliper mount for your frame if it wasn't equipped with tabs.Okay. I wanted to run a disc rear on a fixed hub, and one nice solution are atomlab's Disk Adapters. The only problem would be making sure the hubs were dirt-worthy. My Promax SBs have washers that can be removed to givea 110mm spacing. The 110mm spacing isn't too bad of a problem if you're willing to build up a wheel with some track hubs that can be respaced. I'm gonna fix up a monocog 29er, but I'm building it up from the frame. Since not having one forces you to skid more and tear up the trails more you are deserving of the aformentioned beating. Skidding is never ever appropriate while MTBing ever. A brake is much better at applying pressure to the wheel and therefore no matter how talented you are it will keep you from skidding at least sometimes. Not putting a back brake on is completely reprehensible no matter who you are(I have never seen an experienced MTBer do so only people who came from the street fixie side of things.) You often need to stop with both wheels while mtbing since there is so much less traction then on the road. However I have little respect for others who do so before they have mastered the basic bike handling skills that are neccesssary to ride fgmtb without damaging the trails. What do you do on behind the saddle descents for instance? However the vast majority of the people who I have seen doing it are incredibly experienced riders who have the skills to do it well and have been riding the trails since thier inception so aren't doing much damage. I am lukewarm to the whole idea of fg mtbing in general because it is far more likely to tear up the trails. People who tear up the trails or risk doing so becasue they don't want to shell out the $30 for a rear brake get dealt with as they deserve. For off road fixed MTB is pretty insane, having to snap the cranks to horizontal all the time to clear obstacles can be tough sometimes, same as bunnyhopping a curb on a fixed just with a bigger and heavier bike plus dealing with bumpy terrain makes it quite challenging. Ive ridden someone else's fixed MTB, and it takes some getting used to, fat tires dont skid like skinny ones, and having a heavier bike to muscle around makes a difference. If its got the newer hubs all you need to do is lace up a wheel with a ss/fixed hub, or have someone build you one. 3rd and ugly option I dont really recommend but ive seen others get away with it, and thats screw on a fixed cog, followed by a BB lockring I think will fit on(maybe, 1.24" by 24tpi isnt it?) and lots of blue loctite. ![]() 2nd best way, cold set the dropouts to 120mm, not an ideal option but doable, although that 4130 cromo frame is pretty stout, aint gonna be real easy. I have one, and its got the 110mm hub, best way would be to find an old 110mm track hub, not common but they do exist. ![]()
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